1-First step: make the lemon caper aioli Start by chopping 1 tablespoon of the capers. In a small bowl, mix the chopped capers with 1/2 cup mayo, the remaining 1 tablespoon capers, zest of 1 lemon, juice of 1/2 lemon, 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, and 1 grated garlic clove. Stir everything together until smooth and well blended. Refrigerate for 10 minutes so the flavors can settle and mellow.

2-Second step: prepare the smelt Pat the 1 pound smelt very dry with paper towels. This part matters a lot because wet fish can turn soggy and the coating will not crisp up well. Sprinkle the fish with salt to taste. If you are using fresh smelt, clean it first by cutting off the head and gutting it to remove bitterness. Dry fish makes crisp fish. If you want that light, crunchy finish, take a minute to blot the smelt really well before dredging.

3-Third step: dredge in flour Place 3/4 cup flour on a plate or shallow dish. Dredge the smelt lightly in the flour, shaking off any extra. Do not let the fish sit too long in the flour before cooking, because pre-dredging can soften the crust and make the coating less crisp. A quick coat is the trick here.

4-Fourth step: pan-fry the smelt For the pan-fried version, heat about 1/4 inch olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Once the oil is hot, add the flour-coated smelt in a single layer. Fry for 3 to 4 minutes per side until golden and crisp. Adjust the heat as needed so the fish cooks evenly without burning. Transfer to a plate and season lightly with more salt if needed.

5-Fourth step: air-fry the smelt For the air-fried version, preheat the air fryer to 390°F. Place the flour-coated smelt in a single layer in the basket and spray lightly with neutral high smoke point oil. Cook for 4 minutes, then flip and cook another 3 to 4 minutes until golden. The air-fryer method is great when you want less oil and less cleanup, but still want a crunchy bite.

6-Final step: serve with lemon and aioli Serve the smelt hot with 1/2 lemon cut into wedges and the chilled lemon caper aioli on the side. A squeeze of fresh lemon right before eating wakes up the flavor and keeps the dish tasting bright. This recipe is best enjoyed right away while the coating is still crisp.