1-Clean shrimp and reserve shells. Prepare vegetables by trimming leek roots and dark green leaves, slicing lengthwise, washing, and chopping roughly; chop 3 celery stalks and discard leaves.

2-Sauté shrimp shells in 2 tbsp canola or grape seed oil over high heat for 3-4 minutes until bright pink. Add 2 tbsp butter, leeks, and celery; reduce heat to low, cover, and sweat vegetables for a few minutes, stirring occasionally. Add 3 cups white wine, 2 bay leaves, 3 sprigs fresh thyme, 1 tbsp white peppercorns, a 1/2-inch piece of fresh ginger, and 3 unpeeled garlic cloves; bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer for 5 minutes.

3-Add 2 cups water, boil again, and simmer for about 20 minutes until reduced by half. Cool and strain the stock, pressing shells to extract flavor. In a saucepan, melt 3 tbsp butter until foaming, quickly whisk in 3 tbsp flour to form a roux, stir for several minutes until pale brown, then gradually whisk in 3 cups shrimp stock; return to heat and whisk until thickened to a velouté consistency for 5-8 minutes. If not using immediately, stir in 1 tbsp cold butter or heavy cream and set aside.

4-Ten minutes before cooking, soak shrimp in water with 3 tbsp salt for 10 minutes; drain, rinse, and dry. Peel and thinly slice 3 garlic cloves, then bring shrimp velouté to a simmer. Heat a skillet on high for 2 minutes, add 3 tbsp olive oil, season shrimp with salt and pepper, and sauté on high for 1 minute; add 2 tbsp butter, flip shrimp, add sliced garlic, and cook for another minute until shrimp are bright pink and garlic is lightly cooked but not browned. Fold shrimp into the velouté sauce.

5-For the saffron rice, preheat oven to 325ºF (163ºC). Peel and dice the red onion, heat 2 cups chicken stock in a saucepan, and grind 1 tsp saffron with a pinch of sea salt using a mortar and pestle. Melt 1 tbsp neutral oil and 2 tbsp butter in an ovenproof pot with a lid, add onion, cover, and sweat on low for 1 minute; stir in 1 cup long grain rice and cook for 1 minute until grains look glossy and slightly browned.

6-Dissolve saffron in 1 cup boiling stock and add to rice, then add another 2/3 cup stock; bring to a boil, lightly salt, cover, and place in oven. After 15 minutes, check rice; if liquid is absorbed but rice not cooked, add more stock and bake a few more minutes until done. Turn off oven and keep rice warm for up to an hour before serving. To serve, spread saffron rice on a platter, spoon shrimp with velouté sauce on top, and garnish with chopped tarragon and/or chives.